Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca a été très déçu par cette dégustation de 2009, citant l'incapacité des vignerons à aborder la difficulté du millésime comme une des raisons de cette démonstration «lugubre».
«Peu de 2009 justifiaient l’optimisme quant à leur longévité, et la plupart des producteurs ont parlé de 2009 comme d’un millésime à boire à court terme»
Le millésime 2009 de Barolo confrontera les consommateurs à des vérités dures et à des vins durs. J'ai goûté bien plus de 200 exemples de Barolo 2009 au Nebbiolo Prima à Alba en mai. La majorité des vins proposés au cours des cinq jours de l'événement non seulement manquaient de couleur classique Nebbiolo, mais ne montraient presque pas d'arômes ni de saveurs de Nebbiolo.
J'adore Barolo, et je respecte et admire bon nombre de ses producteurs pour leur dévouement et la clarté de leur vision. Pourtant, je dois dire que dans ce millésime, la performance de beaucoup d’entre eux n’était pas simplement un manque, c’était lamentable.
Bien sûr, il y avait des exceptions: plusieurs producteurs - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, pour certains - se sont avérés très buvables Barolo. Quelques-uns - notamment Pio Cesare et Massolino-Vigna Rionda - ont même confiance dans le potentiel de garde de leur vin. Cet avis a été fréquemment repris par les commerçants et acheteurs, qui ont dégusté une sélection de ces vins une semaine plus tôt que les journalistes, et auprès des producteurs (non aveugles). Mais à mon palais - et de l'avis de nombreux journalistes à qui j'ai parlé - la plupart des fabricants de Barolo semblent avoir gravement sous-estimé la difficulté de ce millésime. Peu de 2009 justifiaient l'optimisme quant à leur longévité, et la plupart des producteurs parlaient de 2009 comme d'un millésime à boire à court terme.
Giacomo Conterno, de la cave Aldo Conterno dans la commune de Monforte, était l'un des producteurs les plus francs. Il a déclaré: «2009 était un millésime de vigneron. Fin août, certaines vignes [de Nebbiolo] étaient déjà presque mûres, et d’autres n’étaient pas du tout mûres - près de 30 jours de différence entre elles. Ce que vous avez fait à ce sujet a déterminé le type de vin que vous avez produit. »L’évaluation généralement optimiste de la récolte de cette année par Consorzio est très prudente:
«Le millésime 2009 restera également dans les mémoires pour sa maturation irrégulière… En termes de maturation technologique, le millésime peut être placé entre 2003 et 2007… En ce qui concerne la maturation phénolique… les données trouvées dans les raisins étaient comparables à celles du 2003… dans ce millésime, les résultats n'ont pas toujours été améliorés en retardant la récolte ».
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Écrit par Tom Maresca
Des Articles Intéressants
