Terroir est l'un de ces mots à la mode que tout le monde dans le monde du vin embrasse, mais qu'est-ce que cela signifie vraiment? Et cela a-t-il vraiment l'effet sur les vins que prétendent les producteurs? Rupert Joy fouille profondément pour le savoir
Terroir est l'un de ces mots à la mode que tout le monde dans le monde du vin embrasse, mais qu'est-ce que cela signifie vraiment? Et cela a-t-il vraiment l'effet sur les vins que prétendent les producteurs? Rupert Joy fouille profondément pour le savoir
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Au sud de Condrieu dans le nord du Rhône se trouve la minuscule appellation de Château-Grillet. Ses 3,4 hectares de vignes sur les pentes abruptes d'un amphithéâtre naturel produisent des quantités infimes de vin du même cépage et des mêmes sols que son voisin beaucoup plus grand, Condrieu. Mais il est reconnu depuis 1936 comme un climatiseur séparé et se vend beaucoup plus. Sa propriétaire, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, souligne que l'originalité du vin issu de ses sols granitiques et de son exposition plein sud est reconnue depuis des siècles. Mais certains de ses voisins se demandent s'il existe une telle différence entre les terroirs de Château-Grillet et de Condrieu.
L'idée que certaines parcelles de terre produisent des vins particulièrement grands n'est pas nouvelle. Le philosophe John Locke, qui a visité Bordeaux en 1677, a noté la «particularité du terroir» du Château Haut-Brion qui le distinguait de ses voisins. Un livre de l’abbé Arnoux, publié à Londres en 1728, attribuait la grandeur du Montrachet en Bourgogne à une bande de terre particulière de la Côte d’Or.
Ce qui est un phénomène moderne, c’est l’utilisation du mot «terroir» pour décrire l’idée. Ses connotations françaises d'origine étaient péjoratives. Jusqu'au milieu du XXe siècle, un vin terroité signifiait un vin rustique et terreux avec, au mieux, une sorte de charme yokel et, au pire, des défauts. Un vin au goût de terroir (saveur de terroir) était un vin de mauvaise qualité qui avait le goût de raisins non mûrs ou pourris. L'idée du terroir comme attribut plus positif n'est apparue qu'à la naissance du système AC dans les années 1930.
Chacun a sa propre définition du terroir. Le plus simple est peut-être celui de l’écrivain américain Matt Kramer, qui le décrit comme «quelque part». La plupart des définitions françaises, y compris celle de l'INAO (l'organisme responsable du système de climatisation en France), comprennent quatre éléments clés: les caractéristiques physiques d'un lieu (notamment le sol et l'exposition), son climat, le cépage utilisé et le rôle joué par l'homme .
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Peu de gens contesteraient la prémisse de base selon laquelle les vins tirent certaines caractéristiques du lieu où leurs raisins sont cultivés et que l'homme joue un rôle dans l'expression de ces caractéristiques. Mais étant donné que presque tous les producteurs de vin prétendent ces jours-ci produire des vins qui respectent le terroir et prétendent adopter une approche «non interventionniste», le consommateur a toutes les raisons de se demander ce que signifie terroir dans la pratique.
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Les racines du terroir
Peut-être parce que le mot est similaire à «terrain», nous avons tendance à associer le terroir principalement avec le sol. Cela peut à son tour encourager la perception que les vins tirent directement un goût du sol dans lequel ils sont cultivés.
Un exemple classique est Chablis, l’un des vins les plus connus au monde. Bien qu'il soit issu d'un cépage omniprésent, l'expression chablisienne du Chardonnay ne ressemble à aucune autre région. Les vins les plus réputés proviennent de la marne calcaire tendre du Kimmeridgian, composée de coquilles d'huîtres préhistoriques.
Les producteurs et les écrivains de vin font souvent un lien entre le goût caractéristique du silex iode du vin et la géologie de la région. «Comment expliquer autrement les notes iodées de Chablis sinon par la composition de son terroir?» Demande Bernard Billaud-Simon. «Vous ne trouvez pas ce goût dans les Chardonnays cultivés ailleurs.»
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Des Articles Intéressants
