Un des grands bourguignons. Crédit: Domaine Dujac
Le maître bourguignon Clive Coates MW vous dit tout ce que vous devez savoir sur le Domaine Dujac, ainsi que des notes de dégustation historiques sur les vins des meilleurs millésimes - dans le cadre d'une série qui revient sur les profils de domaine des derniers livres de Clive.
Contrairement à la plupart des domaines bourguignons, qu'ils mettent en bouteille depuis plusieurs décennies ou se sont lancés dans cette voie depuis peu, le Domaine Dujac est une création récente. Il date de 1968. Jacques Seysses, le fondateur, est au début de la soixantaine, et a maintenant pris une banquette arrière au profit de ses fils Jeremy et Alec et de l’épouse de Jeremy Diana, une œnologue de formation. Ils travaillent en trio depuis quelques millésimes.
Les choses ont-elles changé? Doit-on s'attendre à des différences plus radicales dans les vins par rapport aux Dujacs d'autrefois? Je suis allé à Morey-St-Denis pour le savoir.
Le père de Jacques Seysses, homme riche à la tête d’une entreprise de biscuits, était un connaisseur bien connu de la gastronomie et du vin, chez lui dans des restaurants trois étoiles, avec sa propre cave.
Faites défiler vers le bas pour voir les notes de dégustation et les scores de Clive
Jacques se souvient, adolescent, de ses visites dans des restaurants trois étoiles à Paris et ailleurs.
«Je ne peux pas vous dire exactement quelle était la première grande bouteille de vin que j’ai eue», dit-il. «Mais c’était très probablement un Rousseau ou une Gouges de l’un des grands millésimes que nous avons eu juste après la guerre.
Ce dont je me souviens, c’est une visite à La Tour d’Argent. Mon père a sélectionné une bouteille de La Tâche 1938 (pas un grand millésime). C'était presque rosé. Nos invités ont été plutôt choqués. Mais l'arôme et l'intensité de ce vin étaient remarquables. Cela devait être en 1958 environ, quand j'avais 17 ans. Je me souviens que mon père a ordonné que le reste du stock soit réservé pour lui-même. »
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