Les amphores espagnoles connues sous le nom de tinajas ont succédé aux barriques de la cave d'Elisabetta Foradori dans le Trentin
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Simon Woolf enquête sur les rapports d'une contre-révolution dans les caves à vin italiennes ...
Il y a un moment bref mais dramatique dans le film de 2014 de Paolo Casalis Barolo Boys: l'histoire d'une révolution lorsque le vigneron Elio Altare amène une tronçonneuse sur une imposante ligne de botti (grands fûts de chêne traditionnels) se trouvant dans la cave de sa famille.
Sa destruction rituelle de ces vénérables vases, décrétée en 1983, avait un but pratique: faire de la place pour de plus petites barriques de chêne français nouvellement achetées. Mais le symbolisme puissant était clair - le botti prétendument fétide et en décomposition représentait l'ancien ordre. Des lignes de barriques parfaites, nouvellement taillées, ont envoyé un message clair de modernité et de style.
Faites défiler vers le bas pour voir la sélection de vins italiens de Woolf sans chêne
Ce qui semblait avant-gardiste en 1983 était devenu de rigueur pour les prestigieux vignobles italiens à la fin des années 1990. Mais plus récemment, la caresse décisive du chêne de la barrique est tombée en disgrâce, du Frioul au nord-est à la Sicile au sud et à tous les points intermédiaires.
Les vignerons italiens se tournent de plus en plus vers des matériaux et des récipients alternatifs pour la fermentation et le vieillissement, allant de l'arcane à l'outré pur et simple.
Là où se trouvaient autrefois les barriques, il pourrait s'agir d'amphores, de qvevris géorgiens, d'œufs en béton ou de grands tonneaux d'acacia. S'agit-il simplement de la mouture cyclique du tapis roulant de la mode ou d'un mouvement plus décisif vers plus d'authenticité et d'expression?
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Notes de dégustation et partitions de Woolf pour une sélection de vins italiens sans chêne:
Des Articles Intéressants
